This past spring, two showstopping regions tucked away in the high Himalayas delivered unexpected delights. We traced the journey of pashmina from pastures in remote Ladakh to looms in Kashmir. Along the way, many cups of kehwa and butter tea were consumed in memorable encounters with nomads and renowned artisans alike.
Sit back and enjoy a trip report from our latest foray. If you've already decided you'd rather see for yourself, head over to the tour page to register!
After taking in Kashmir's pashmina glory, it was imperative to trace the fibre to its source. Pashmina is found only on altitudes above 15,000 feet. We needed to track down Changpa nomads along dusty roads into the highest reaches of the Himalayas.
If we had thought that Kashmir was spectacular, Ladakh took our breath away. Literally to begin with as we landed at 12,000 feet above sea level. Leh is one of the world's highest altitude capital cities. It also might be India's quietest. After the cacophony of Srinagar roads, Leh had a nice small town feel. All around were the mountains, even more majestic and higher than in Kashmir. Tucked in here and there, ringed by the flutter of prayer flags, were ancient monasteries. Outside of Tibet, these monasteries carry on the vibrant rituals and traditions associated with Tibetan Buddhism. Kashmir and Ladakh are so unlike each other that it's hard to believe they're only only 500 km apart.
The first order of day was to descend to acclimatize. Visiting 900 year-old Alchi monastery was the perfect excuse. The artistic and spiritual details of Buddhist and the Hindu kings of that time in Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh are depicted in spectacular wall paintings in the monastery. These are some of the oldest surviving paintings in Ladakh. (Photography is not allowed -photos from the web)
After the visit, hands-on workshops began in earnest. We took in Likir pottery and a natural dyeing and weaving experience in pashmina. The wool is extremely fine and soft, like touching a warm cloud.
At this point, we were close to the nomads who tend the Changthangi goats. The highlight of our trip! After a longish drive into some of the world's most stark and striking terrain, we spotted the goats. Great excitement ensued.
In the nearby temporary settlement, we arrived together with the goats being herded in for the night. For their own safety, little kids had been penned from going to the pastures. They mewled at being reunited with their moms and hungrily sought teats. Nearby, women sat weaving at looms and spinning on hand spindles.
Back in Leh, we visited private collections and NGOs working to reclaim the pashmina narrative by supporting a fledgling local industry. At every place hospitality was laid on with grand high teas and serenading musicians. Farewell dinner was around a bonfire with our fantastic drivers, guides, and several bottles of Old Monk they had avoided while navigating those spectacular windy roads!
It may sound clichéd, but I really did leave a piece of my heart behind in Ladakh. I hope the mountains that silently listen to the flutter of prayer flags might hear my wish to return.
Come with us in May to Ladakh, and see for yourself! Registration now open.
We will do it all again in Spring 2025. Are you in? Registration now open
Accolades
“Loved being in Ladakh - the landscape, the people, the culture, learning about the history. It was an amazing experience and remain grateful for the opportunity -- Anne A., Staffordshire,
"Ladakh stole my heart. The monasteries, hotels, the cultural experience. Ran out of adjectives to describe the splendour of the landscape -- Sopiato L, Kenya
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Thanks for taking a look! I am Shila Desai, owner of E.Y.H.O. Tours. I personally handcraft itineraries, infusing them with curated activities, accommodations, and sightseeing. Together with my in-country teams, we deliver exceptional holidays every time. I invite you to leave me a comment or write shila@eyhotours.com